HO - Cary

We have discontinued production of Cary diesel bodies.
This only applies to the  HO Steam Loco Kits, O Trolleys and All turntables

In 1958 Cary Locomotive Works produced its first Steam Locomotive Conversion Body, expanding the line to Diesel body units, Diesel detail parts, and a large line of lost wax brass detail parts. All Cary Conversion Bodies are zinc die castings. These are accurate models with smooth nose contours and shapes, as well as deep sharp detail. All our bodies are designed to fit commercially available drivers of other manufacturers in HO scale, such as old Athearn, Hobbytown, and Proto-Power West, etc. The basic body in all our conversion kits is a one piece casting, with some parts, such as, roof ventilators, shutters, steps, air horns, etc., cast separately where such parts could not be accurately cast as part of the body.

Brass Detail Parts Drawings - PDF file 187K

Super Detail kits drawings - PDF file 50K

HO Diesel Body Kits  all bodies are discontinued when sold out.

#13-50	EMD SW-1500 Body Kit
#13-2	FT-A Body Kit
#13-3	FT-B Body Kit
#13-53	Fairbanks Morse H-10-44/H-12-44 Body Kit
#13-8	E3, E4, E6 Body Kit
#13-14	E7-A Body Kit
#13-9	E-B Unit Body Kit
#13-52	ALCO S-2, S-4 Body Kit
#13-20	Phase I & II F2 or F3 A Unit Body Kits
#13-21	Phase I & II F2 or F3 B Unit Body Kits
#13-1	Box Cab Conversion Kit for Athearn Hustler

 HO Body Catalog Pages (PDF file 800 K)

HO Boiler for Steam Locomotives

#13-34	USRA Heavy Steam Loco Boiler
#13-44	USRA Light Steam Loco Boiler
#13-32	Pittsburgh 4-4-0 Conversion Boiler Kit for Mantua General Drive

Super Detail Kits for Steam Locomotives

#13-510	For use on Cary Pittsburg 4-4-0
#13-520	For use on Cary USRA Heavy & Light 2-8-2
#13-530	For use on Roundhouse Harriman Engines
#13-540	For use on Roundhouse PRR Engines
#13-550	For use on roundhouse or MDC Shay Engines
#13-560	For use on Mantua 2-6-6-2 with Tender

 

Some hints for working with Cary bodies

DRILLING: Always use a lubricant, cutting oil is best, but any oil will do. Dip the tip in oil, just enough to moisten the end. When drilling, back the drill out of the hole frequently to clear the chips, re-oil the drill bit often.

TAPPING:  When tapping holes or using self tapping screws in our castings, use a lubricant to dip the end of the tap or screw in, again cutting oil is best, but any oil will do. For every full turn that the screw is driven in, back it off 1/2 turn to clear the chips. Keep doing this until the desired depth is reached.

PARTS ATTACHMENT:  We recommend using one of the many brands of ACC cement (super glue), Goo, Ambroid, or epoxy for attaching the detail parts. Always make sure the parts fit into the desired mounting hole or location before applying cement. Make sure both surfaces to be glued are clean, and free from oil and finger prints, sanding with fine sand paper prepares the surfaces nicely. Epoxy cements also work very well, but have longer setting times.

PREPARATION FOR PAINTING:  Wash the body in warm water and dishwashing detergent to remove all grease and oil, scrubbing with a soft brush. Submerging the body in straight vinegar (DO NOT USE FOR COOKING OR EATING AFTER USING) for several hours will etch the metal ever so slightly to ensure the paint will adhere. After the vinegar bath rinse the body thoroughly in water.